Vallejo Model Color 500 ml Matt Acrylic Varnish

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I'm new to airbrushing, and new to varnishing. I did models as a kid, just painting from the pot. That was about 30 years ago.

Now most of us want our models to look the best we can make them. A gloss coated miniature looks out of place on the table and pales next to one with a more matt finish. So if you want to protect your miniatures and have them matt you need to use both products. Like I said, if it works for them, more power to them, but I wouldn't touch that technique with a barge pole.There are several guides on the internet about what to use and how to do it already. Problem is that they all reference a product that is no longer available and were written a million years ago by old school modellers. For decals, you want to gloss varnish first - either the whole model (if you're spraying), or just the area you want to put the decals (if using a brush).

I would also say that if in doubt test it out before covering you model with anything be it paint or varnish. Its a bit like woodwork. Varnish a bit of wood that is not 100% dry and the water vapour will cloud the bottom of the varnish as it tries to escape. If you are spending many hours painting miniatures then protecting your paint work is part of the painting process. Plastic miniatures hold up well to repeat handling but metal and resin miniatures can often scratch or chip. To counter this unwanted damage many of us coat our figures in a protective layer of varnish. I am going to use Vallejo matt (brush) varnish and Winsor & Newton Gallery series (brush) matt varnish. Is anyone using em for producing serious results ?(I mean not only for tabletop but for display too). Or does somebody knows a better product than them?If your spray from too far away the varnish can dry in the air before it hits the model and this can produce some unwanted results. As with all things I suggest you try this on a test mini first!